| Greenwood/Elk,
A Town With Two Names: The first settlers to
come to the Elk area did not come to the area to
log the redwoods, they came to hunt, trap or ranch
the area. Among the first to come to the Elk area
were, William Richardson, Francisco Faria, James
Kenny, Orso Clift, Nathaniel Smith, and Britton
Greenwood. It is Britton Greenwood's name from which
Elk's second name Greenwood comes from. If it were
not for another town named Greenwood first in California,
Elk would be called Greenwood today. Many still
call it Greenwood. Any discussion of early Elk can
not be complete with out discussing Cuffey's Cove,
located a mile or so to the north of Elk. By 1880,
James Kenny had purchase land from several original
settlers and owned on both sides of the main road
(Howard Street & Hwy 1 today) from the gulch
on the north side of the present day catholic cemetery
to the gulch north of the Greenwood school. Basically,
all the land between Cuffey's Cove and Greenwood.
In
1868 Kenny saw the possibility of a shipping point
from which local produce and redwood products could
be loaded on ship for San Francisco. By 1870 there
were as many as 11 sailing vessels in the harbor
and 80 tie teams hauling ties from surrounding camps.
The hillsides and fields south of the cemetery were
covered with ties. From this sprung up the town
of Cuffey's Cove which preceded Greenwood.
While
Cuffey's Cove prospered, other men besides Kenny
started to think of building loading chutes. Fred
Hemke built a chute just north of the Cuffey's Cove
harbor for his saw mill two miles up Greenwood Creek.
At Dinny Doyle's Point (now St. Anthony's Point)
on the north end of Greenwood the Chism Chute was
attempted. A third one in Li Foo's Gulch (on the
north end of the present Greenwood State Park) was
started, but not completed by Lorenzo E. White.
Two miles south of Greenwood was the forth at Uncle
Abe's Landing. None were successful.
The
course of history was about to change when L.E.
White bought 21 acres of land in Greenwood from
his brother-in-law, J.S. Kimball. White complained
about the shipping facilities in Cuffey's Cove and
was determined to remedy the situation and build
a sawmill on Greenwood Creek. White had built a
railroad to carry his products to Cuffey's Cove
and now all he needed was the chutes. He attempted
to buy them for $40,000 but Mr. Kenny wanted $75,000.
Undaunted, White began work with surveyors, laborers
and seamen in Greenwood to find a suitable location
of his own on his land. He proposed to build a steep
incline from the cliffs to a wharf build along the
rocks in Greenwood Cove. The project took two years
to complete but was successful. The wharf lasted
the lifetime of the mill he built at the mouth of
Greenwood Creek. The success of this wharf basically
put Cuffey's Cove out of business and the town drifted
into history. Much of Cuffey's Cove packed up and
moved to Greenwood.
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This street scene looking north up Hwy 1
shows several historic buildings still present
in Elk. Taken near the turn of the century
(the last one), the hills behind Elk look
very different than today lacking the tree
covering. The far steeple belongs to the
Greenwood Community Church still in use
today. The next two buildings coming south,
one with a flat roof and one with a gable
roof are gone today. The next large white
house with a sign hanging from the upstairs
is the Old Hospital House looking today
much like it does in this photo. The next
house with the single attic window in the
front still exists and sports an Elk Weather
Vane given to Prue Wilcox by the makers
of Elk Roof Shingles. The house next door
is gone today and the house on the far right
still stands. |
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This fine photo of the old lumber loading
wharf shows the rail tracks used to load
the ships. A beautiful wall mural of this
scene can be seen today in the museum on
Hwy 1. Lumber was hauled in cars by mule
from above, now the state park, to the ships.
The wharf burned after the closure of the
lumber mills. Some wood pilings can still
be seen today as well as the shelf cut into
the rocks. |
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This unique shot is taken from the end of
the wharf showing the utility buildings
used for loading ships. The large building
on the cliffs directly above the utility
building is the old Greenwood School. |
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This shot of Greenwood Creek's old mill
pond shows the logs being dropped into the
pond off of rail cars. Men with jack screws
"jacked" the logs off the cars.
Another man then rode the log and pushed
it with a pick pole into position for the
mill. The sawed lumber was then loaded on
to flat cars and pulled up the incline to
the lumber yard near the company store where
it was graded and made ready for shipping.
Notice that each rail car carries one large
log, a sight not seen anymore. The large
house surrounded by a white fence it the
present day Elk Cove Inn. The lumber mill
is just around the corner behind the Elk
Cove Inn building. |
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First a short chute and lighters were used.
Later a larger chute was built that schooners
could moor under loading the lumber directly
onto the ship. |
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Charlie Li Foo, for whom the gulch is named
just to the north of the state park in Greenwood,
worked as a woodsman. Alone in the woods,
a tree fell on him pinning his leg to the
ground. After waiting and giving up hope
of rescue, he took out his knife and "took
care of business". After crawling into
town, he recovered and changed occupations
to the town barber. |
St. Mary's Star of the Sea Catholic Church
was built in 1880 at a cost of $3000 to
replace an older, unsafe church. The new
church with a 22 foot ceiling was situated
in the present day cemetery high on a bluff
over the sea. It was considered the most
beautiful of the Catholic churches on the
coast. It served the community until 1910
when Cuffey's Cove was largely deserted
for Elk. |
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This is the entrance to the Cuffey's Cove
Catholic Cemetary as it is today. Once the
site of the Star of the Sea Church, it remains
a beautiful place. |
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Few cemetaries are as scenic as this one.
Visible in the distance is the Elk Coast
stretching down to Bridgeport and Manchester. |
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Greenwood/Elk pictured in the late 1890's.
Note the general abundance of buildings
and people when compared to today. Sorry
this image is big, but it is necessary to
see the detail. |
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This photo, taken in June of 1999, shows
the village of Elk in the present day. Taken
from approximately the same location as
the historic photo above. Notice that all
of the lumber facilities are gone except
for a few concrete foundations in the State
Park. Some original buildings survive today.
The town is home to less people than at
the turn of the century. Modern coastal
zoning and the difficulty of finding work
make it difficult to expand the population
of the area. I've shown this photo smaller
than the one above to speed up loading of
the page. It takes long enough as it is. |
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The
Forth of July celebration was a yearly event
in Greenwood enjoyed by young and old. The
line of march for the parade was from Slotte's
Hotel (the junction of Philo-Greenwood Road)
north to the double bridge (between the
Greenwood School and the Harbor House).
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